The Women of Saint John

It turns out that the bonfires of San Juan have nothing to do with Catholicism or a man named John. Every year, during the week of the summer solstice, Alicantinos celebrate this pagan holiday by having each barrio (neighborhood) construct an enormous effigy—most of them are of fairy-like women with long, wispy features and Barbie-like proportions—and on the final night of the festival, all of them are burnt in the hogueras (bonfires).

When the Christians conquered Spain, they preserved the pagan party factor (as is apparent in the weeklong boozing, fireworks, dancing and general revelry) but since the holiday happened to fall on the day of St. John, the name was changed.

I asked one of my professors why all the monuments primarily feature gorgeous women. “Because men construct them and they’re living out their fantasies in cement and papier-mâché,” she replied with a smirk.

Last night, we were watching coverage of the festival on the news during dinner—the entire ayuntamiento (city hall) building was covered in rose netting for the flower parade. My host dad had explained to Kelly and me earlier this week that the ubiquitous monuments aren’t simply pretty structures, but for those who understand the imagery and symbolism, they actually represent political and social grievances of the Spanish people. Some issues of concern are the desire of the Catalunya province to secede, ETA and the Basque country and more locally, Alicante’s loss of business and status to Valencia, a nearby city.

So I turned to him and re-asked my question about the women effigies. I wanted to know why women were the face of these evils, why they (we?) get incinerated in order to purge the Alicantinos’ world.

Me: Porque todos los monumentos son mujeres? No he visto a ningun hombre. (Why are all the monuments of women? I haven’t seen a single man.)

Luis: Porque las mujeres son malas (because women are bad), he replied with a smirk.

I wish somebody would just answer my question.